My climb ended the day it started. Day 2 was training day and I never even made it to the training snowfield. We started out from Paradise at about 9:30am hiking one of the trials towards a snowfield for safety training. It was a beautiful morning with the sun shining brightly. We could see a cloud covering the summit of the Mountain and the guide told us it was from snow blowing off the summit. Report was that the winds were blowing somewhere between 60-70 mph.
We hiked for about 15 minutes and stopped to get a lesson on "compression breathing" which helps you cope with breathing issues as you gain altitude. I felt pretty good...the pack didn't feel to heavy and my legs felt good. We started up a steeper section (not compared to what we'd see climbing to Camp Muir) and I quickly found it very hard to breathe. Tried the compression breathing and even stepped out of line and stopped to try to catch my breathe. After a couple of minutes it was off again. Lasted another 5 minutes and stopped again. After the 3rd stop I was about 50 yards behind the rest of the group. "The Spaniard" (one of the guides) said we had another 30 minutes to go to reach the snowfield. It was at that point that I knew I couldn't keep up with the group and my climbing days were over. The guide and I turned around and he escorted me back down to Paradise where one of the bus drivers took me back down to base camp. I've looked it up and "shortness of breath with exertion" is one of the symptoms of altitude sickness. Something you can't predict, train for or prevent.
To say I'm disappointed is an uderstatement...to say I'm a little bit depressed is closer to the truth. You've just got to wonder if it was age, alergies, asthma or if I'm just pre-disposed to breathing issues. Who knows?
Wednesday, August 24, 2011
Monday, August 22, 2011
Sunday, August 21, 2011
The Day is Here - The time is Now!
Up to the Mountain today...and I'm scared sh**less. What am I going to forget to bring? I'm sure it'll be something. There's a pile-o-stuff in the front room just waiting to be stuffed into the backpack...but who knows how much space there will be with a sleeping bag, several jackets, climbing pants, etc., etc., etc.
Weather forecast is looking better and better. Maybe showers on Monday night and nothing during the day. Keeping my fingers crossed. I can't imagine climbing in the rain...and with the freezing level at 14,000 ft. it's going to be rain. A lot of color in the sky this morning...beautiful sunrise.
Slept in this morning...made it to 2:00AM. I'm sure I'll be bushed b y the end of the day. No exercise, but the stress of the unknown. This is a situation neither Kenny nor I have been in and frankly, I don't have a clue what to expect.
Bought a new camera yesterday (small, compact, great resolution and a 5X zoom) so I'm hoping for some killer pictures. If the weather stays clear, there should be some great shots of Mt. Adams and Mt St. Helens. I've seen some spectacular pictures on the web of the Little Tahoma peak and some skyline shots but most of them have a LOT of white in them...go figure.
I've decided not to shave until we come back down. Want to look like one of those veteran climbers when I summit...like i've been at base camp for 2 months training for an assault on Everest.
Weather forecast is looking better and better. Maybe showers on Monday night and nothing during the day. Keeping my fingers crossed. I can't imagine climbing in the rain...and with the freezing level at 14,000 ft. it's going to be rain. A lot of color in the sky this morning...beautiful sunrise.
Slept in this morning...made it to 2:00AM. I'm sure I'll be bushed b y the end of the day. No exercise, but the stress of the unknown. This is a situation neither Kenny nor I have been in and frankly, I don't have a clue what to expect.
Bought a new camera yesterday (small, compact, great resolution and a 5X zoom) so I'm hoping for some killer pictures. If the weather stays clear, there should be some great shots of Mt. Adams and Mt St. Helens. I've seen some spectacular pictures on the web of the Little Tahoma peak and some skyline shots but most of them have a LOT of white in them...go figure.
I've decided not to shave until we come back down. Want to look like one of those veteran climbers when I summit...like i've been at base camp for 2 months training for an assault on Everest.
Saturday, August 20, 2011
Itinerary Post
Day 1: Pre-Trip Orientation
3:00 - 6:00 p.m.: Meet at Rainier BaseCamp.
We will meet at 3:00 p.m. at our Rainier BaseCamp facilities in Ashford, WA. Please dress casually and bring your climbing equipment and clothing. Note: Whittaker Mountaineering Rental Equipment is available for pickup after 12 p.m.
We begin our Pre-Trip Preparation and Training with a welcome and introduction of team members and guides. Throughout the afternoon your guides will provide a focused introduction to a variety of topics. This includes a detailed personal equipment discussion and gear check, an introduction to safety practices including use of helmets, harnesses, and avalanche transceivers, and instruction regarding Leave No Trace practices and environmental considerations.
Please make your own arrangements to stay in the Ashford area this evening.
Day 2: The Mountaineering Day School
8:15 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.: Meet at Rainier BaseCamp.
Arrive at Rainier BaseCamp dressed for hiking, packed with your Mountaineering Day School gear, and ready to go at 8:15 a.m. Guides will offer final packing and clothing suggestions. We depart BaseCamp immediately following our initial morning preparation. Transportation is provided between BaseCamp and Paradise in a private shuttle. The entire day is spent training on the lower snow slopes of Mt. Rainier, just above Paradise between 6,000 and 6,600 feet.
Our Mountaineering Day School offers participants an overview of various techniques which help meet the challenges set forth by this magnificent mountain. It serves as a great introduction or as a refresher if you haven't been in the hills for a while. Our guides are excellent teachers relaying this information to you in an easy to understand manner. On this day you will be introduced to a number of skills, from the basic techniques of efficient mountain travel (rest-stepping and pressure breathing) through cramponing, roped travel, and ice axe arrest practices.
Our first priority is the safety of all team members. During the School you will be asked to demonstrate that your fitness will allow you to climb safely, and that you are able to perform the new climbing skills proficiently. We will continue to assess each team member throughout the course of the training and the climb.
Following the day of training, the shuttle takes our group back to Rainier BaseCamp.
Please make your own arrangements to stay in the Ashford area this evening.
Days 3 & 4: The Summit Climb
8:15 a.m.: Meet at Rainier BaseCamp.
Day 3: Check-in at Rainier BaseCamp. Team assembles in preparation for the trip to Camp Muir. After a short team meeting, the shuttle departs for Paradise, and our Summit Climb begins.
The Summit Climb takes place over the course of two days. On the first day we hike to Camp Muir, and on the second day we make the attempt on Mt. Rainier and return to Rainier BaseCamp.
The hike from Paradise (5,400') to Camp Muir (10,060') is nearly 4.5 miles, and will take us most of the day. The hike travels through the spectacular alpine zone and onto the Muir Snowfield, named after John Muir who climbed the peak in 1888. The Snowfield is climbed for some 3,000 vertical feet, opening up grand vistas of the wooded lowlands and flanking glaciers. Groups typically climb for about an hour or so and then break for 10 to 15 minutes.
Once at Camp Muir, the climb leader will address the specifics regarding the rest of the climb, including route conditions, food, equipment, clothing recommendations, and any further questions you might have. Accommodations at Muir consist of a small mountain hut with bunks and sleeping pads. After dinner we will retire to our sleeping bags to rest for the upcoming summit attempt.
Day 4: Early in the morning we don ropes, crampons, helmets, and grab our ice axes. The Muir hut is locked during the climb, so items not needed for the summit bid may be left behind. The route on the upper mountain changes continually but typically begins with a rising traverse across the Cowlitz Glacier and then ascends the pumiced switchbacks of Cathedral Gap. This allows us to gain the mighty Ingraham Glacier, from which we will then access either the Ingraham Glacier or Disappointment Cleaver routes; the actual route choice will be determined by many factors and will be left to the professional discretion of your guides. The steeper Ingraham Headwall or Disappointment Cleaver will be the physical crux of the route. The remaining slopes and hours are whittled away as we zig and zag through the crevasses of the upper mountain. It is truly a spectacular climb, and one that you will remember for a long while to come. As we make our ascent, we climb steadily for one to two hours at a stretch, and then break for 10 to 15 minutes.
The summit of Mt. Rainier is spectacular. A large crater dominates the summit, with steam rising out of the cavernous summit vents. The bare ground near the summit can be warm to the touch. At 14,410 feet, Mt. Rainier is the highest point in Washington. After spending some time on top (depending on the weather), we begin the descent to Camp Muir. This takes about half the time of the ascent, and also requires significant effort. (Be sure that your training specifically includes preparations for descending. This will help ensure that your ability to safely descend is not compromised.) Once back at Camp Muir, the group will take a break and pack for the final hike down to Paradise. Our shuttle then takes the team down to Rainier BaseCamp. Plan on arriving back in Ashford in the late afternoon or early evening. We celebrate our adventure with a presentation of certificates.
The duration of the climb depends on many variables including snow conditions, the time of year, the route conditions, the weather during our climb, the temperature, etc. Those variables often affect our arrival time to Ashford, which might vary dramatically from climb to climb. For this reason we do not recommend scheduling an airline flight before midnight on the last day of your program.
3:00 - 6:00 p.m.: Meet at Rainier BaseCamp.
We will meet at 3:00 p.m. at our Rainier BaseCamp facilities in Ashford, WA. Please dress casually and bring your climbing equipment and clothing. Note: Whittaker Mountaineering Rental Equipment is available for pickup after 12 p.m.
We begin our Pre-Trip Preparation and Training with a welcome and introduction of team members and guides. Throughout the afternoon your guides will provide a focused introduction to a variety of topics. This includes a detailed personal equipment discussion and gear check, an introduction to safety practices including use of helmets, harnesses, and avalanche transceivers, and instruction regarding Leave No Trace practices and environmental considerations.
Please make your own arrangements to stay in the Ashford area this evening.
Day 2: The Mountaineering Day School
8:15 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.: Meet at Rainier BaseCamp.
Arrive at Rainier BaseCamp dressed for hiking, packed with your Mountaineering Day School gear, and ready to go at 8:15 a.m. Guides will offer final packing and clothing suggestions. We depart BaseCamp immediately following our initial morning preparation. Transportation is provided between BaseCamp and Paradise in a private shuttle. The entire day is spent training on the lower snow slopes of Mt. Rainier, just above Paradise between 6,000 and 6,600 feet.
Our Mountaineering Day School offers participants an overview of various techniques which help meet the challenges set forth by this magnificent mountain. It serves as a great introduction or as a refresher if you haven't been in the hills for a while. Our guides are excellent teachers relaying this information to you in an easy to understand manner. On this day you will be introduced to a number of skills, from the basic techniques of efficient mountain travel (rest-stepping and pressure breathing) through cramponing, roped travel, and ice axe arrest practices.
Our first priority is the safety of all team members. During the School you will be asked to demonstrate that your fitness will allow you to climb safely, and that you are able to perform the new climbing skills proficiently. We will continue to assess each team member throughout the course of the training and the climb.
Following the day of training, the shuttle takes our group back to Rainier BaseCamp.
Please make your own arrangements to stay in the Ashford area this evening.
Days 3 & 4: The Summit Climb
8:15 a.m.: Meet at Rainier BaseCamp.
Day 3: Check-in at Rainier BaseCamp. Team assembles in preparation for the trip to Camp Muir. After a short team meeting, the shuttle departs for Paradise, and our Summit Climb begins.
The Summit Climb takes place over the course of two days. On the first day we hike to Camp Muir, and on the second day we make the attempt on Mt. Rainier and return to Rainier BaseCamp.
The hike from Paradise (5,400') to Camp Muir (10,060') is nearly 4.5 miles, and will take us most of the day. The hike travels through the spectacular alpine zone and onto the Muir Snowfield, named after John Muir who climbed the peak in 1888. The Snowfield is climbed for some 3,000 vertical feet, opening up grand vistas of the wooded lowlands and flanking glaciers. Groups typically climb for about an hour or so and then break for 10 to 15 minutes.
Once at Camp Muir, the climb leader will address the specifics regarding the rest of the climb, including route conditions, food, equipment, clothing recommendations, and any further questions you might have. Accommodations at Muir consist of a small mountain hut with bunks and sleeping pads. After dinner we will retire to our sleeping bags to rest for the upcoming summit attempt.
Day 4: Early in the morning we don ropes, crampons, helmets, and grab our ice axes. The Muir hut is locked during the climb, so items not needed for the summit bid may be left behind. The route on the upper mountain changes continually but typically begins with a rising traverse across the Cowlitz Glacier and then ascends the pumiced switchbacks of Cathedral Gap. This allows us to gain the mighty Ingraham Glacier, from which we will then access either the Ingraham Glacier or Disappointment Cleaver routes; the actual route choice will be determined by many factors and will be left to the professional discretion of your guides. The steeper Ingraham Headwall or Disappointment Cleaver will be the physical crux of the route. The remaining slopes and hours are whittled away as we zig and zag through the crevasses of the upper mountain. It is truly a spectacular climb, and one that you will remember for a long while to come. As we make our ascent, we climb steadily for one to two hours at a stretch, and then break for 10 to 15 minutes.
The summit of Mt. Rainier is spectacular. A large crater dominates the summit, with steam rising out of the cavernous summit vents. The bare ground near the summit can be warm to the touch. At 14,410 feet, Mt. Rainier is the highest point in Washington. After spending some time on top (depending on the weather), we begin the descent to Camp Muir. This takes about half the time of the ascent, and also requires significant effort. (Be sure that your training specifically includes preparations for descending. This will help ensure that your ability to safely descend is not compromised.) Once back at Camp Muir, the group will take a break and pack for the final hike down to Paradise. Our shuttle then takes the team down to Rainier BaseCamp. Plan on arriving back in Ashford in the late afternoon or early evening. We celebrate our adventure with a presentation of certificates.
The duration of the climb depends on many variables including snow conditions, the time of year, the route conditions, the weather during our climb, the temperature, etc. Those variables often affect our arrival time to Ashford, which might vary dramatically from climb to climb. For this reason we do not recommend scheduling an airline flight before midnight on the last day of your program.
T-Minus 1 Day and Counting
Saturday 6:00AM. I've been up since 1:00AM and dozing off and on. My typical first day back from DC. Can't sleep worth a darn. Maybe a little excitement about the coming events too? I think so.
Today is shopping day for those last items for the climb...sun screen, ear plugs (not sure why we need these), tube socks, etc., etc. etc. Allergy shots up first thing then visit mom and dad. Home to pack and relax after that. I'm sure I'll be thinking of things I should be taking all day.
Looks like rain is forecast for Monday evening and Tuesday. Climbing in the rain does not sound like fun to me. Maybe it'll be a low cloud layer and we'll be above it all. Pretty sure we will be once we reach Camp Muir (10,000 ft.).
Our normal flight crew was working the DC flight home and they wished me good luck over the loud speaker when we were passing the Mountain. Lots of gallows humor at work, "keep you ass out of the crevasse" from the boss. I think that will be my motto for this adventure. I also have a special surprise for Kenny when we reach the summit...some celebratory aids.
Plan on taking my iPad up to Ashford (our jumping off point) so Kenny and I can continue to post up until Tuesday and can post once we come down.
Today is shopping day for those last items for the climb...sun screen, ear plugs (not sure why we need these), tube socks, etc., etc. etc. Allergy shots up first thing then visit mom and dad. Home to pack and relax after that. I'm sure I'll be thinking of things I should be taking all day.
Looks like rain is forecast for Monday evening and Tuesday. Climbing in the rain does not sound like fun to me. Maybe it'll be a low cloud layer and we'll be above it all. Pretty sure we will be once we reach Camp Muir (10,000 ft.).
Our normal flight crew was working the DC flight home and they wished me good luck over the loud speaker when we were passing the Mountain. Lots of gallows humor at work, "keep you ass out of the crevasse" from the boss. I think that will be my motto for this adventure. I also have a special surprise for Kenny when we reach the summit...some celebratory aids.
Plan on taking my iPad up to Ashford (our jumping off point) so Kenny and I can continue to post up until Tuesday and can post once we come down.
Wednesday, August 17, 2011
7 Days Until We Summit
I don't know about Kenny but it's getting really hard to focus at work. I've been waiting and working for this for over 6 months and the anticipation is starting to build. Take a good look at the map route Kenny posted. It'll be interesting to see if it's easier than it looks. And the doubts are starting to grow...did I work out enough...will I get altitude sickness...do I have enough determination to get to the top?
One more day in DC and then back to the coast. We usually get a great view of the Mountain when we fly in to Seattle and I continue to be amazed at how beautiful it is.
Saturday's going to be spent running errands and packing. Sunday, Kenny and I meet at the Mountain and go through an orientation meeting. Monday we spend the day on the snow above Paradise practicing safety procedures. Tuesday we climb to Camp Muir, spend the night in the bunkhouse there and Wednesday we go for the top. The website says we start out around 2:30AM andf it looks to be a long day. I'll keep my fingers crossed that the weather will stay nice through then.
One more day in DC and then back to the coast. We usually get a great view of the Mountain when we fly in to Seattle and I continue to be amazed at how beautiful it is.
Saturday's going to be spent running errands and packing. Sunday, Kenny and I meet at the Mountain and go through an orientation meeting. Monday we spend the day on the snow above Paradise practicing safety procedures. Tuesday we climb to Camp Muir, spend the night in the bunkhouse there and Wednesday we go for the top. The website says we start out around 2:30AM andf it looks to be a long day. I'll keep my fingers crossed that the weather will stay nice through then.
Tuesday, August 16, 2011
Route preparation maps and pictures
Here are a couple of route maps showing the path we'll most likely take:
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